DIY: Adirondack Chair

Adirondack chairs are popular on decks and for outdoor living, though they also look great in a rustic living room or cabin!  Rather than being straight-backed and uncomfortable, their design make them a joy to sit in.  However, a finished Adirondack chair can up to $700 dollars, whereas materials will run you between $50 and $150 depending on the wood you choose to use. Check out how to make your very own Adirondack chair by following the instructions below.

Note: you will need a miter saw and a jigsaw to complete this project.

Materials Lumber

• One 2″ x 2″ x 6′ footboard
• Three 2″ x 4″ x 8′ footboards
• Four 1″ x 4″ x 8′ footboards

Hardware

• 2-inch screws
• 2-inch deck screws
• 4-inch deck screws
• 1 1/2-inch deck screws or exterior screws

Other Directions A) Cutting the planks to size

1. For the stretcher boards: 
   Cut two 2 x 4s such that the long end measures 31 7/8″.  One end should be cut to 20^o off of square at the shortest point; the other end should be cut to 35^o off square at the longest point. Then, mark off 2″ on the 20^o square end and cut at a right angle (90^o) to your 20^o cut. 

   If you aren’t sure how to measure a certain number of degrees off of square, check out this quick how-to here. 

2. For the legs: 
   Cut two, 2″ x 4″ planks to 20 3/4″.  Cut both ends parallel, 15^o off square.  These will be the back legs.  For the front legs, cut two, 2″ x 4″ planks to 20″ long.
3. For the seat: 
   Cut five, 1″ x 4″ planks to 22 1/2″.
4. For the arms of the chair:
   Cut two, 1″ x 4″ planks to 27″.
5. For the arm rest support:
   Cut two, 2″ x 2″ planks to 26 1/2″.  Cut one end at 15^o off square.
6. For the back support and front apron:
   Cut two, 2″ x 4″ planks to 22 1/2″.
7. For the back slats:
   Cut five, 1″ x 4″ planks to 36″.
8. For the top support section:
   Cut one, 1″ x 4″ board to 19 1/2″.
9. For the base support section:
   Cut one, 2″ x 4″ board to 19 1/2″.

B) Building the legs

1. Using 2 1/2″ deck screws, attach both back and front legs to an arm support, keeping the outside and top edges even.  Use clamps and wood glue for additional stability.
2. Turn the front leg such that the arm support faces downward on your bench, and elevate off the bench using 2x4s.  Measure 13 3/4″ from the base of your front leg on the left-hand side, and mark.  On the same leg, measure 1/2″ horizontally and mark.   Line up your stretcher such that the 20^o off of square side lines up with your two marked measurements.  The 35^o off square side should now line up to the base on the right.  Fix in place with 2 1/2″ deck screws.  Use wood glue for additional stability.
3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 to make your second leg.
4. Using 2 1/2″ deck screws and wood glue, attach the front apron such that it lines up with the stretcher board on each side.

C) Making the seat

Drill two pilot holes on each side of your seat slats, using a countersink bit to keep the wood intact.  Line up on the top of the stretcher and screw into place using the 2″ screws, being sure to put a 1/2″ gap between each slat.  Do not use wood glue on the seat slats; they will naturally move more than the rest of the chair.
Note: it helps to lay out all the slats first, screwing in the outermost slats before the others and adjusting as you go, so that the spacing is right.

D) Making the back

1. Turn the chair upright with the back towards you.  You will note that the back support board is wider than width of the legs to which it must be affixed.  Attach the back support to both of the back legs at an angle, such that the distal side is pointed upward and the proximal side is pointed downward until flush with both sides.  Use 2 1/2″ deck screws and wood glue to affix.
2. Attach the back slats as you did the seat slats in Part C: 1/2″ apart, using 2″ screws at the base but with 1 1/4″ exterior screws at the top.  Do not use wood glue on the slats, as they will naturally need a bit more flexibility.  
   Note: it helps to lay out all the slats first, screwing in the outermost slats before the others and adjusting as you go, so that the spacing is right.
3. Using a bucket, trash bin, or other large, circular item as a guide, draw an arc at the top of your back slats.  Then, using your jigsaw, make the cut.
4. Slide the finished back into place in your chair.  Secure with 2 1/2″ deck screws.  Finally, screw the chair back into the back support with 2″ deck screws.

Finishing touches

1. Finish the chair by screwing the armrests into the arm supports using 2″ deck screws and wood glue, clamping into place.  
2. After all your glue has cured as per the instructions on your wood glue, sand any jagged edges, particularly the top of the chair back.
3. Finally, paint or spray with at least two coats of finish: a clear coat if you really like the look of your wood.

This post first appeared on LuxuryRealEstate.com. To see the original, click here.